New Tricks and Old Dogs

We've all heard the saying: "You can't teach an old dog new tricks".   I'm here to tell you that isn't true for quilters!  

I stopped taking classes years ago because I just have way too many unfinished projects laying about.  BUT the exception to that rule are technique classes.  I'll even taken a class that's a project if it has a technique in it.  I may not buy fabric for a whole quilt, but enough to do a block or two to learn the technique.

The thing you need to remember is to TRY exactly what the teacher is teaching you.  You may find it awkward at first and feel it's not right for you, but you MUST give it a good try during class so you can ask for help if needed.  Remember, you're there to learn.   You may find that part of the method works well for you and you can adapt it to how you normally do a technique.  

Over the years I've taken several different people's applique classes and use the techniques for different areas of applique.  I do stems the Mary Sorenson's way and needle turn the Roxanne's way.  Sometimes I use Laura Fraga's template method.  

This year I took a class at the Ventura Modern Quilt Guild.  It was taught by Jen Carlton Bally.    The class was on Lanterns using her Drunkard's Path templates.  Basically it was  how to sew curves without having to pin a lot.  Right up my alley because I HATE to pin.  Her templates are great because they are slightly over sized so you can trim to an accurate size block.  I bought a set; they came in a cute little muslin bag.

Jen's website:    http://www.bettycrockerass.com/shop/   

She used a basting glue stick to align the concave and convex curves together.  I tried it and  it works well.   After doing several her way, I found that I could either just put a dab of glue at the ends and in the middle and not all the way along the curve.   Using an orange stick for my stiletto worked great (learnt  that from John Flynn's class).    

A few things I still use from her class are:  1) begin sewing a seam about a 1/4" in from the end, then back track to the end and come forward again.  What this does is eliminates thread bunching at the beginning and/or the fabric going down the needle hole.

2) Jen uses a smaller stitch length when sewing curves.  Makes sense doesn't it?  Stitches are straight and having a shorter stitch will "bend" around a curve better than a longer stitch.


Website:  https://www.byannie.com/

On the Go Bags

Credit card slots

I have made about a half dozen purses/bags using byAnnie patterns.  I love her "On the Go" bag for quilt shows and fairs.  I made the red, white and blue one as a "test.  Then I made the green one with my friend Selma while we were on a retreat.  I modified all of them, by putting the clear plastic pocket for your name tag to what ever show you're attending, from the outside flap to the inside.  She had one on the inside also, for your ID.  I felt the the purse would be more user friendly, if I didn't have the name tag on the outside.  When I'm at a show (I use it mostly for PIQF), I just flip the flap to the back so that the name tag shows, but when I'm walking around outside the show, the flap covers my name.

Wider back with pockets

The first two I put in the credit card slots as directed.  But after using it awhile, I decided I'd rather carry my wallet.  So on the black one, I made it slightly deeper and eliminated the credit card slots and put in two little pockets for lip stick, pills, whatever.  

On all her bags she uses Soft and Stable foam that's covered in fabric.  This gives the bags some support and firmness.  You quilt fabric to the front and back before cutting out your pieces.  All the seams are bound with binding.    This is the only bag I made where the seams are on the inside.  You bind them on the outside and then turn the bag right side out.  I'm thinking the next one I make it I'll let the seams be on the outside which will give me even more room on the inside.  Get this idea from her other bag patterns.

Hold Everything

Large Hold Everything

Made her "Place for Everything" bag to carry my applique to my small group.  The inside has "pages" that Velcro in and out.   I liked it so much that I decided to make a half size version to carry just my sewing tools in when I'm working on larger projects.  It too has removable "pages".  Decided to make the front of both with selvages.  I have one selvage across the back of the bags that says "Under the Influence of Fabric".  I've made another small version as an gift exchange with my Modern Quilt Guild.  The gal loved if and asked if I would be upset if she used it for jewelry when she traveled instead of for sewing.  

Small Hold Everything

Pages removed

Just finishing up her "Take a Stand" purse/tote.    Thought it would be good to carry when I want to take my tablet with me.    It really holds a lot of stuff.  Had my tablet, wallet, crochet project and a small bottle of water to take to my guild meeting.   There's two sizes with the

Take a Stand

 
pattern and the larger one is big enough to carry your featherweight sewing machine!  I may have to make that to use as a swim bag.  Hmmmm, my wheels are turning.  Outside should be made with something water proof.  Sorry got carried away.

Finally to the point of "new tricks".
In this pattern she shared a new technique that I don't remember from her other patterns.  When making binding, bias or otherwise, don't press it in half.  Pin it wrong sides together every 3 - 4 inches instead.  She said it would make the binding lay smother specially going around curved areas.  And she was right.  I'm going to have to try this next time I make a quilt.  Though I doubt I'll pin the binding in half (cause as previously mentioned - I HATE TO PIN).  I think it would be easy enough to fold as you sew it on.  Sure would be nice not to have to press yards of binding!

What was suppose to be new tricks turned out more of an endorsement for byAnnie.com.  But there were a few tricks in there for you.   Must admit that when I like a product, I love to share it with people.

Knots - Not just for beginnings and endings!

Diagram 2

Diagram 1

I forgot to add one more thing to my Favorite Notions from a previous post.  That's the self threading needle.  (Diagram 1) Mama used to call them Blind man's needles (She was legally blind).  They are a needle with two eyes.  You should be able to see them on the picture to the right. (diagram 2)  The bottom one is a regular eye; the top one has the slightest opening at the top of the needle.  You pull your thread down into the eye.   I don't use these for sewing but for burying thread ends.  Specially for my longarm.  You can take the top and bobbin threads, pull them both through the top of the eye and then bury them in the quilt.  They're good for heavier threads that are hard to get through a small eye, too.  

Diagram 3

The other use for them is when a stitch is loose. (Diagram 3)  You can pull it up, slip the needle into the fabric and push the needle into the loose stitch and pull into down into the fabric. (Diagram 4)  Generally there's not much needle to grab onto, so I use those handy forceps to hold the needle tip and push it up into the thread and then pull it though the fabric.  (Diagram 5)

Diagram 5

Diagram 4

KNOTS:

Every sewer knows you start with a knot and end with a knot; how else can you keep things together.  Over the years I discovered making a knot, even just a slip knot or two helps in many ways.  

If you've ever caught the hem of your pants, dress or skirt on something you know eventually the whole hem is going to sag at some point before you can get home and fix it.  It happened often enough for me that I started making a slip knot or 2 about every 8 to 10 stitches along my hem.   The knots prevent the hem from unraveling too far.

I've adopted this technique over the years to other aspects of sewing.  When I'm putting on binding on a quilt for example; I make a knot every 10 stitches or so.  When I'm doing applique,  I go to the back of my piece and make a knot every so often.  Actually, no matter what I'm sewing by hand, I put knots in as I go along.  If you have a problem with breaking thread or whatever, you know you've knotted not to far back and don't have much to rip out.

In quilting we've been taught never to back tack at the beginning of a seam or at the end because the thickness of the layers of stitching won't allow the seam to press smoothly.  And don't you just hate when you're putting blocks together and your seams within the block start to separate because you didn't tack it at the ends?  The way I help prevent the seams from opening up is very simple.  I usually using a scrap of fabric to start sewing on then I sew a 3 or 4 stitches without anything under the needle before I begin to sew my block and/or unit.  At the end I continue to sew 3 or 4 stitches past the end before I stop.  When it comes to cutting the thread, NEVER clip the thread next to the fabric.  Clip at least 1/4" away.  Those 3 or 4 stitches are twisted together and the extra length you've left will help the seam from pulling apart.

When hand sewing, again I never cut next to the knot.  I put my ending knot in then take my needle and pass it thought the back or seam, at least a needle's length away from the knot and then clip the thread.  The knot is less likely to come undone through washing if it's not clipped too close.  This is good when you're sewing on buttons too.

Multiple Half Square Triangles

When you're making more than one Half Square Triangle (HST) it is faster to make them in multiple units.  I find the methods below let you sew without dealing with the bias of using  2 triangles.  Generally you're using a dark and light fabric.  Instead of cutting them one at a time, I like to place my fabric right sides together and then cut the 2 squares at once.  Then they're all ready to go.  Below are instructions for making 2 at a time and 8 at a time.  I've given you the formula so that you can make what ever size you might need.  The examples are for a finished 2" unit.  

For you beginners, there are two terms, "finished" and "unfinished".  "Finished" is the size of the unit and/or block once it's sewn into a block or quilt.  "Unfinished" is the size of the unit and/or block with the seam allowance added on.   For a 2" finished block, you'd cut 2 1/2".  For HST, you need to add more than just the 1/4" seam allowance on each side.

Most instructions have you add 7/8" rather than the 1" I've given you.  I have yet to get both (or all 8) of my HST to come out exactly.  By adding a full inch, I can trim them to the exact size needed.  That being said, I still sew with a scant 1/4" seam.   

In a previous post about my "favorite things", I mentioned the "Loc-Bloc" ruler from trimming HST.   If you don't have one here is how you trim your HST:  It is MOST IMPORTANT that you place the diagonal line of your square ruler on the diagonal seam.  Adjust it up or down  the seam to make sure you can see that the fabric extends past the parameters of the size you want to cut.  Your seam should be exactly at the corners of your square.

Two Half Square Triangles

Formula: Size of finished Half Square Triangle plus 1"  

Example: 2" finished block + 1" = 3" square

                (3" finished block + 1" = 4" square)

Place the two fabrics right sides together

Cut a 3" square (1 of each color)

Draw a single diagonal line (Fig. 1)

Stitch 1/4" on both sides of lines (Fig.2)

Press stitched piece before cutting apart

Cut between stitching on drawn line (Fig. 3)

Press both Half Square Triangles toward the dark fabric (Fig. 4)

Trim each to a 2 1/2" square

Eight Half Square Triangles

Formula: Size of finished Half Square Triangle plus 1"times 2

Example: 2" finished block + 1" = 3" X 2 = 6" square

                 ( 3" finished block + 1" = 4" X 2 = 8" square)

Place the two fabrics right sides together   

Cut  6" square (1 of each color)

Draw a diagonal line in both directions on the lighter fabric (Fig. 5)

Stitch 1/4" on both sides of both lines (dotted lines are stitching lines) (Fig. 6)

Press stitched piece before cutting apart

Cut piece in half horizontally and vertically, then cut diagonally between stitches on drawn lines (Fig. 7)

Press the 8 Half Square Triangles toward dark fabric

Trim each to a 2 1/2" square.

Viewer's Choice

I won the Viewer's Choice Award at the Camarillo Quilters Association's Quilting by the Sea Quilt Show last April.  They finally got the ribbon to me last week.  It's the only award this guild gives out.  Was very thrilled at winning it.

A Few of my Favorite Things - Notionwise!

It's hard to know where to begin.  I'm a nut for notions and gadgets!  And if they're little, well that just makes it all the better!!  Love little things.

Diagram 1

Let's start with the simple things.  Make Velcro your best friend!  There are all sorts of Velcro, or the generic term: Hook and Loop.  (Diagram 1)  It comes in all shapes and sizes.  Most of us know the sew on kind, but there is also the stick on type (which all these are).  Let me warn you that the stick on type really sticks and is not easy to come off.  You can buy it by the yard or in dots and shapes.  The box in Diagram 1 is heavy duty 1 1/2" wide Velcro.

Why should Velcro be your best friend?  It keeps things right where you need them.   In Diagram 2 you see the right end of my Pfaff.  I put a strip (actually 2 strips) of white Velcro near the base of the machine.  There is a seam in the 

Diagram 2

Diagram 3

plastic case, so I split the Velcro in pieces, that way a repair person can open the machine without disturbing my Velcro.  Always attach the "Loop" or rough side of the Velcro to the machine.  Use the soft side to put on items you use often; the ones you'll be handling.  In my case it's my seam ripper and my chalk marker.  I put the Velcro on the cap of the seam ripper so if I want to close it, I can still stick it to the machine.   My friend Sherry Gary gave me several cute "cupcake" pin cushions and I keep one Velcroed to the top of my machine.  It can be removed when I use my travel case.  Those are button topped pins in it which are heat proof so you can iron over them without having them melt.  If you have a Longarm machine, Velcroing a seam ripper to the side is very useful too. 

Diagram 4

Another attachment to my sewing machine are my little yellow thread scissors.  I lost 2 pair to the trash can I keep under my sewing table before I decided to do something about it.  I took one of those expandable key thingies and attached it to my pedal cord.  The back of it has a slip on clamp.  It stretches well beyond the needle area of my machine.  Have had the same pair now for 6 years! (Diagram 4)  You'll notice on the right side of the picture above the needle is a 3M strip.  It's actually the Loop side of a 3M picture hanger strip.  More on that later.  You can also see an attachable light in that picture.  The light came with a permanent stick on disk that you slip the light into.  After my previous Pfaff was laid to rest, I realized I couldn't remove the disk to put it on my new machine.  I was able to buy just the seating disk separately for the new machine.  Instead of using their stickem' I used a 3M strip you use for the 3M hooks.  Now if I get a new machine I can remove it easily.  I also use the 3M hooks to hang my large rulers on the side of my cutting table.

Took a class with John Flynn a few years ago to make a Winding Ways wall hanging.  Lots of curves to sew.  He handed us an Orange Stick to use as a stiletto instead of a (Diagram 5)

Diagram 5

metal one.  For those who are very young, an Orange Stick is what is used to push back your cuticle.  I went into CVS and asked for an Orange stick and the gal took me to the food section.  I bought a package at a Sally Hansen Beauty Store.  The reason they are better than a metal stiletto is that the wood grabs the fabric and won't puncture it like a metal point will.

Diagram 6

Recently I purchased some Tulip Clamps on-line.  They're for holding the thread on your bobbins so they don't unravel.  Doesn't matter the size of the bobbin, they fit all.  I keep bobbins of different colors in my applique bag, so I bought a dozen of these.  They come with a chain, so the bobbins all stay together.  I loved them so much I bought 60 more so I could share them with friends.   These I bought from Amazon; think Nancy's Notions carrys them as well.

Diagram 7

When I started my Longarm business I liked using Superior Thread's Bottom Line bobbin thread.  It comes in spools, cones and pre-wound bobbins.  It's very fine and on a standard bobbin you can wind about 92 yards.  Yes, I actually wound and then pulled off all the thread to measure it.  It was great that my Longarm and my old Pfaff used the same size bobbin; I could use the metal Longarm bobbins in the Pfaff but not the plastic Pfaff in the Longarm.  My new Pfaff has the larger bobbin (M size).   So I'm using up all my old plastic bobbins for appliqueing.  The Bottom Line thread is so fine that it disappears when appliqueing.

Diagram 8

Don't know about you, but I have a hard time seeing that little slot on the clear plastic bobbins that you put your thread through to start the winding process.  Not only that, with the drop in bobbins on the Pfaff you need to have the word Pfaff facing up.  That's hard to see also.  To make it easy on both accounts, I put a dot of red fingernail polish next to the slot on the side that goes up.  Now I can find the slot and know which way is up in just a glance. (Diagram 8)

Diagram 9

My next "gadget" are the Loc-Bloc templates/rulers.  They come in a lot of different sizes and shapes.  I bought a set of 3 for trimming Half Square Triangles (Diagram 9)  and a set of 2 sizes for Flying Geese (Diagram 10).  They have a grove etched on the bottom side that pushes against your seam(s) and keeps it in place while you trim.  Never do I miss getting a sharp corner on my squares - having that diagonal exactly at the corner.  On the flying geese I always have that needed 1/4" seam allowance at the top.

Diagram 10

 You'll note that I have them on a small green cutting mat that's on top of my large table top cutting mat.  I do this for a number of reasons.  First, it's easy to turn the small mat rather than the fabric so you don't dislodge the template.  And second, generally when I'm trimming HST or Flying Geese, I making tons of them.  Rather than wearing out my large mat in the same area, I'd rather do it on a small mat that can easily be replaced.  which I just did.  I also use the back side of the mat when I don't need the grid lines, this make the mat last longer - 2 for the price of one!

My next gadget isn't a sewing tool at all, but I have adapted it for sewing.  It's a laser light. (Diagram 11)  Bought it at Harbor Freight and it's called: Central Machinery Laser Marker.  The cost is $5.99.  And what do I use it for?  One thing about making Half Square Triangles is having to mark that diagonal line on every square!  With the laser marker, I don't need to draw the lines anymore.  Remember the picture of the 3M "Loop" strip on the front of my Pfaff? (diagram 4).  I have it's matching strip on the back of the laser maker and when I need it, I just push it in place.  Adjust the light so it shines from corner to corner of my square, move my needle a quarter inch to either side and stitch away.  I have to admit it takes a bit of time to get the light adjusted, but when I'm doing dozens of HST, it makes it go so much faster.

Diagram 11

Just a few more things - I promise.

Diagram 12

(Diagram 13) I have a tendency to bend my needles when I'm doing hand sewing/applique work.  I discovered by accident Clover's Black Gold Needles.  They say right on the back "Does not bend easily".  And they don't!  My Diablo Valley Quilters friend Julia, picked me up a pack when we were at the guild retreat about 3 years ago.  I haven't stopped using them.  They are a bit pricey $5.99 for 6, but since they last so long I don't mind.  We have a gift exchange and she gave me a lovely Koa wood pin cushion with Clover glass head pins.  They're called "Patchwork Fine".  (Diagram 12) Bought some more to give as a gift too.  They glide easily through all fabric types.

Diagram 13

The other Clover product I like is the Flexible Rubber Thimble with metal tip. (Diagram 12) This one has been a life saver for me.  My joints have become permanently enlarged with Rheumatoid Arthritis which made me unable to applique for very long.  The metal thimbles cut into my joint.  Tried leather thimbles with metal tips, but after awhile the glue seam on the leather gave way.  These rubber ones come in 3 different sizes, each a different color.  So glad my size (large) came in yellow!  There's a hole in the cardboard so you can test which size is best for you.  Have them in every sewing case and near my machine.  Keep buying them for fear they'll stop making them!  The metal tip is dimpled on top to grab your needle.  Really can't say enough good things about them.
(Diagram 14)  One last thing, forceps.  Yes, forceps.  I have two different sizes.  They come in handy when you only have a bit of a needle showing after pushing it through some dense fabric.  Grab and pull.  I've even pulled thread out with it when there was just a tiny piece showing. They're good too if you're having a hard time hanging onto a needle while trying to put it in your machine.   Bought mine at Pacific International Quilt Festival at that booth with all the odd tools.

Diagram 14

English Paper Piecing Hexies

My best friend from high school, Margie, asked me about the Hexies I had posted a few years ago.  (see "Two Years Ago" dated 11/15/14)  She wanted to know how they were made.  I told her English Paper Piecing.  

Diagram 1

I've made 3 different sizes of hexies.  (Diagram 1) The smallest flower here is made out of 1/4" hexies, the middle one is 3/8" and the largest one is made out of 1/2" hexies.  I've only made one of the 1/4" ones; as much I LOVE little things, even those were too small for me!  At the time I made these I had no clue what I was going to do with them.   Since then I've made so many, I haven't counted.  Working on an idea for a very long narrow wall hanging.

Diagram 2

Diagram 3

English Paper Piecing is done with card stock weight templates that you wrap your fabric around.  There are many different shapes (not just hexies) you can buy or make yourself.   In Diagram 2 you can see several different sizes.  They're measured by the length of one side.  I can't find my bag of the 1/4" hexies.  The one on the bottom of the ruler is 3/8"  the others, are from left to right, 1", 3/4" and 1/2".  In Diagram 3  you can see a Hexie punch that makes 1/2" hexies.  It's the smallest punch I could find.   I used index cards to punch them out.  My friend, Selma, saves the postcards you get inside magazines and uses those to punch hers out.   I've purchased the 3/8" ones a Cotton and Chocolate Quilt shop; most stores carry them.  The good thing, is once you've attached enough together, you can pull them out and reuse them.

Diagram 4

There a couple of ways to keep the fabric wrapped around the templates.  Diagram 4 shows that I've "basted" the fabric around one of the pink templates using black thread so you can see it.  Fold one edge over and then the next counter clockwise.  I take one stitch and then move my needle over to the next folded down fabric and take a stitch and keep going around the hexie.  This turned out to be very time consuming.

Diagram 5

Diagram 6 

After watching a demonstration at the C & C booth at PIQF, I saw how to do it with basting glue.  I use Sewline glue stick.  (Diagram 5) The reason I like it is that the glue comes out blue so you can see where it is.  It dries clear and washes out.  When using the glue you need to be careful not to get it on the template but only on the fabric.  Again I start with folding one edge over and put a dab of glue before folding down the next edge, working around the hexie.  I work around the hexie in a counter clockwise direction.  (Diagram 6)  shows, the six green hexies in stages of being glued down, starting at the top and working clockwise.  REMEMBER, don't get the glue on the template or you won't be able to remove it!

Diagram 7

Diagram 8

Next you're going to want to attach one hexie to the next.  Not sure if you can see in Diagram 7 (another picture at the end may be clearer) that I've joined the brown hexie to the pink one using a whip stitch.  I used white thread in hopes that it would be more visible.  You want to catch just the fabric on the edge of the template but not pierce the template itself.  With hexies, once one side is sewn, I like to make a slip knot before going on to the next edge.  In Diagram 8, I've bent the pink hexie in half so that I can line up the next side 

Diagram 9

of the brown hexie to the next pink one.  Diagram 9 shows the two lower edges of the right brown hexie has been attached to two of the pink hexies.  

Hope my explanation has made sense.  Like I said at the beginning, I'm working on a very long wall hanging.  I'll show you later, when it's finished.  But because it is so very long, I've been piecing it in parts.  (Diagram 10)

Diagram 10

The hexie in the middle white row second from the right, has it's paper template removed.  It will lay flat again once the entire piece is quilted.

Whip stitching 2 hexies together
(Diagram 7a)

Piecing Tips

Let's get down to basics -  putting two piece of fabric together.  Easy, right?   Have you heard of the Warp and Weft of fabric?  

The Warp are the threads of the fabric that are attached to the loom when making fabric.  For us laymen it's the selvage edges.

The Weft are the threads that are woven under and over the Warp threads.

Most of us cut off the selvages when we begin cutting up our fabric into pieces for quilting.  There's no give in the selvage and can cause problems down the road.  If you're sewing clothes, the patterns give you indications as to where to layout your pattern on your fabric.  The Big Black Arrows that say "put me along the selvage edge" please.  

But once you remove those selvages, how do you know?  Simple, give your fabric a little tug between your fingers.   The Warp or selvage edge won't "give" very much when pulled, if at all.  However, the Warp edge will pull easily the same way you'd expect a bias edge to "give" when pulled.

What does this mean for us quilters?  How many times have you tried sewing a row of blocks or even pieces of blocks together and they just don't quite match up?  

Let's say we're making a simple 4 patch block.  Here's an easy step to take to help with that.  Figure out which is the Warp and which is the Weft by pulling each edge of the square of fabric you've cut.  Which ever "gives" the most is the Weft.  Sorry I can't show you both my hands pulling on the fabric - needed one hand to snap the photo! 

Now when you sew two pieces together, place the Weft sides at the top/bottom and sew along the Warp edges.  What has this done for you?  Sew your two sets of 2 patches using this method.  Now that you have 2 sets of 2 patches ready to sew together into a 4 patch,  you'll be sewing along the Weft edges.  These are the edges that "give" when stretched.  So if your cutting or sewing hasn't been exactly accurate, this little "give" will allow you to stretch the fabric a little bit to make the edges and/or seams of your pieces match up perfectly!

This technique is especially helpful when you're sewing plain squares in a row of pieced blocks.  Gives you that extra little bit to get things to match up just right.

Another Tip along those same "matching up" issues:  If you're sewing along and your noticing that the next seam, or end of the blocks you're sewing together aren't going to match up, what do you do?   Well, which ever is shorter, whether it's the top piece of the bottom, hold it a bit tighter while your machine feels the fabric under the foot.  Just a bit tighter.  The feed dogs and/or walking foot will pull along which ever you're not holding onto  tightly and will help "ease" it into the short piece.  And Wala!  the seams and/or end of the fabric match up!!

I can't stress enough that I HATE to pin ... anything.  But I've learned there is one except and that's when I add borders.  I'll go into the correct way of "adding borders" at another time.  For now just remember it's better to pin borders than not to pin.  Why?  As mentioned above, fabric "gives".  When sewing on borders without pinning them you will enviably stretch the border and this will cause wavy borders that will never lay flat.

Chain Piecing a Quilt

My favorite way to put a quilt together is chain piecing the whole quilt.  We all chain piece, "pieces parts" of blocks, but most people don't think to chain piece the blocks together.

There are several advantages to doing this:  

• It's fast
• You can see mistakes before the rows go together
• Makes pressing the rows in the right direction easier

Lay out your blocks either on your design wall or on your floor.  (Diagram 1)  I like to put a safety pin in the top left corner of the block in Row 1, Column 1 to indicate the top left of the quilt.

Diagram 1

Diagram 2

Now take the blocks in Column two and flip them over on top of the blocks in Column 1 (Diagram 2).  I like to stack them up starting with the bottom row and off setting the pairs slightly to take them to my sewing machine.  Stitch them together one set after another; in other words "chain" piece them until the row is complete. 

Go back to your design wall (or floor) and stack up Column 3 blocks starting at the bottom with the first block ending up on top of the stack.

Bring the stack over to the sewing machine.  "Open" up the first pair that was sewn together and lay your first block from the stack (Column3) face down and sew it.  Continue opening up the first pair of sewn blocks and adding the next block from stack (Column 3) to them.

Repeat stacking up your columns and sewing them onto the blocks already assembled.

When you are finished, lay out your blocks and check to see if they all were added in the right order.  It's also easier to see if you'd like to change up a block or two.  Having the rows together sometime gives you a better perspective of how things will look.  Diagram 3 shows a quilt that is chained together.  The rows are not joined yet.  

Now it's time to take it to the ironing board and press the seams.  Press the first row one direction and the next the opposite direction.  It's easy to remember which way to press each row, because they are all there in front of you!

Diagram 3

Diagram 4

Hope you all will try out this technique the next time you're assembling a quilt.  Let me know what you think.

Added note:  When joining the rows together,  I like to start at the bottom of the quilt.  Fold the last row on top of the second to last row.  This keeps the majority of the quilt on the bottom and to the left of your machine.  Once the you've sewn these bottom to rows together, it's easy to go back to the top and fold them over on top of the rest of the rows to sew the next rows together.

2018 - What's Up?

Can't believe I've not posted in 3 years!  So much has happened.

Best thing is we have a Grandson now.  Connor is 15 months old and as cute as he can be.  Molly is now 6 and what a smart little girl she's turning out to be.  She's in kindergarten now.  Reading everything she can get her hands on and loving doing math problems with Grampa.  They have the times table written on her white board here at the house.  She won't ease it to draw pictures cause she hasn't memorized it all yet.

I've joined the Ventura Modern Quilt Guild besides being a member of the Camarillo Quilt Association.  Really enjoying the modern guild because it's small and easier to get to know people.

From our driveway

Night after the fire started

I'm sure most of you have heard about the Thomas Fire that happened here in Ventura last December.  The first night of the fire came within a few blocks of our home.  We stood in the street watching flames come over the hills behind the orchard until 3 am.  Our subdivision was spared.  The winds blew it westward through the city of Ventura and up the coast to Montecito and Santa Barbara county.  We were in a cloud of smoke for many days.

Our Modern guild has spearheaded making quilts for all the victims.  Not only here in Ventura but those of the Montecito mud slides.  I've been doing as many as I can.  So grateful our home was spared; feel a need to give to those who weren't as fortunate.

I've lost my website.  And apparently there is now a new company called The Quilting Co.  I had received an email asking to sell my domain over a year ago.  I get those every now and then.  I didn't realize they were actually going to start a business with that name.  It makes me said every time I see it.  I didn't sell the domains.  And if I let them expire, they'll just take them.  Having a hard time letting it go.  

Was hoping to have my pattern line up and selling under that name.  But family life has made it too hectic to get the patterns designed.  Some day maybe.

For now, I'm hoping to post tips and suggests to this blog.  Don't give up on me.  Below are a few of the quilts and quilt tops I've done for the Thomas Fire Project.  The one with people in it is a quilt top I made while still living in Walnut Creek.  Got it quilted with feathers and donated it.  The gal on the right is the recipient.   

made from donated TF blocks