Continuous Quilting for a 9 Patch and Ohio Star

Been messing around figuring out how to continuously quilt an Ohio Star - not a pieced block, just the star itself.  Came up with this.  Figured I may as well do a 9 patch as well.  Hope someone else out there might be able to use these.  (You need to click on the picture in order to see the Ohio Star.)

Backing fabric for your Quilt

Most LongArmers like to have the backing fabric 6 to 8 inches wider than your quilt top.  That gives them 3 to 4 inches on each side of your quilt.   And at least 10" longer than your quilt.  More is better than scrimping.  Quilting on a longarm machine actually takes up a bit more fabric on the back.  These extra inches will allow for any "shrinkage" during the quilting process.   I always told my clients to leave whatever length their backing ends up to be alone.  That way they would get one piece back rather then having them cut the backing down to 10" and then me trimming off the backing and giving them another small piece.

Whenever possible I like to use a solid piece for the backing fabric.  It usually comes in a width of 108".  Your Longarm Quilter will love it! 

When piecing your backing horizontal seams are the best.  And when I say horizontal, I mean I want the seams to run the same direction as my longarm rails.  Let's say it's going to take 3 lengths of backing fabric to make the backing of a Queen size quilt top.  Each piece would be cut around 95".  Most fabric is 42" with the selvages cut off.  That will give you a backing piece of 95" by 125" inches.

The diagram shows how to piece the fabric.  Remove the selvages from both sides of the center piece and the seam edges of the top and bottom piece.  Leave the selvages on the top  and the bottom of the other two pieces.  If you're quilting on your domestic machine, this will help the edges from fraying.  If you are giving it to a Longarm quilter, she'll appreciate the selvages when she is pinning the backing to her leaders.

To insure that you have enough backing fabric I use this technique.  I first fold my backing into quarters.  Then I fold my quilt into quarters and lay it on top of the backing.  Aligning the two folded edges.   As you can see the amount of backing hanging off the off the table is ample for the length of the backing.  Remember it's double that amount since the length is folded in half.   On the right side of the picture above and the one on the right, you can see there is ample backing fabric for the sides of the quilt.  Sorry this example is white on top of white.  Hope you can see it.  If you are viewing this from an email notification, you might want to go to the blog site.  The pictures are a bit more clear and larger.




I recently had the pleasure of hearing Dora Cary lecture.  She said she does her quilting on a domestic machine.  She NEVER pins or bastes her quilt sandwich.  Dora always uses 100% cotton batting that grips the fabric.  She smooths out the backing fabric, layers on the batting, hand pressing it against the backing.  Then she layers on the quilt top and again hand presses it smooth against the batting.  She had a quilt with her that was partially quilted.  We could see that the layers were smooth and "stuck" together.  I haven't tried this, but it sure would be a time saver.  She was a very interesting speaker.  I'd highly recommend her to any guild looking for a good speaker.  https://www.orangedotquilts.com/

Feel free to send questions along about any making backing fabric.  The method for checking to see if you have enough backing fabric is a fast and true method.  I've used it on wall hangings to CA King size quilts, it never fails.

Quilt Labels

How many times have you come across an antique quilt and wondered about the maker.  Who was she/he?  Why did they make this particular quilt?  Where did she/he live?  

Some day someone may be asking the same questions about your quilts.   So PLEASE put a label on the back of your quilt!   Not only for historical purposes, but for your family.  When did Mom make that quilt?   Was this Mom's quilt or Aunt Jane's?  Quilts that are given as gifts should have a label too. 

There are different ways to add a label.  As a longarm quilter, I found that most people add a label after the quilt has been quilt.  They'll sew it down in the corner using the binding to cover 2 of the four raw edges and turning under the other two edges.  If you are piecing the label into the back make sure you have it moved away from the edges of the backing.  You don't want to have it quilted and then find your label didn't make it all the way into the backing.   There were several quilts I quilted for clients that I had to load the quilt with the bottom of the quilt and backing at the top of my machine to make sure the label made it into the quilt!

Some people fold a square of fabric in half into a triangle, and again sew it into the corner binding, having only the folded edge to tack down.  Some have left this folded edge unsewn and tucked in washing instructions if the quilt is given as a gift.

An example of a label sewn into the backing  is one of my own quilts.  It was a simple Irish chain quilt that I had planned to use penguin fabric I loved.  It was a queen sized quilt that I was hand quilting.  I was afraid my husband wouldn't want penguins all over our bed quilt.  I ended up quilting the outline of penguins on the front and put my penguin fabric and block on the back.  It became the label.

You can print out labels too.  Either with pre-bought fabric attached to paper, or make your own using freezer paper.  I did this one to the left for a quilt I was entering in an exhibit.  (I've blacked out my phone number, and old address for this posting.)  I should redo the label for a more personal touch.

For the most part labels are hand written with indelible ink.  Writing on fabric can be difficult.  Iron a piece of freezer paper to the back of the fabric to stabilize it.  I can't write straight for the life of me.   Using a heavy Sharpie, I draw lines on the paper side of the freezer paper.  Once it's ironed onto the fabric, you can see the lines and write out a nice label.

Which brings us to What do you write on a label.   Of course your name and date.  I generally use the month and year I finished the quilt.  If it's for a birthday or wedding, use that date.  You can also add your city and state.  The title of the quilt if you've given it one.  A message to someone you're giving it to.  You may want to add how the quilt was pieced or quilted.  (By hand or machine). Type in Quilt labels on the internet and you'll find all sorts of poems or sayings for labels.  You can even find decorated labels you can print on fabric.

The label  below I printed for a miniature double wedding ring quilt I made for my great niece.  Since she is not a quilter, I gave her information about the quilt design.  Added her name for ownership of the quilt and the date of their wedding.  Then a message from us, and finally how the quilt was made and by whom.  I had made a similar one for her brother when he married.  They were small enough to put in shadow box frames.

You'll notice I generally use my maiden name as my middle name.  This is so that in the future, if one of my quilts is deemed an antique and someone is trying to track my history, they have my maiden name.

The Double Wedding Ring Quilts for my niece & nephew

Hope these have given you some ideas on how to create your own labels.  Now go get labels on your quilts!

New Tricks and Old Dogs

We've all heard the saying: "You can't teach an old dog new tricks".   I'm here to tell you that isn't true for quilters!  

I stopped taking classes years ago because I just have way too many unfinished projects laying about.  BUT the exception to that rule are technique classes.  I'll even taken a class that's a project if it has a technique in it.  I may not buy fabric for a whole quilt, but enough to do a block or two to learn the technique.

The thing you need to remember is to TRY exactly what the teacher is teaching you.  You may find it awkward at first and feel it's not right for you, but you MUST give it a good try during class so you can ask for help if needed.  Remember, you're there to learn.   You may find that part of the method works well for you and you can adapt it to how you normally do a technique.  

Over the years I've taken several different people's applique classes and use the techniques for different areas of applique.  I do stems the Mary Sorenson's way and needle turn the Roxanne's way.  Sometimes I use Laura Fraga's template method.  

This year I took a class at the Ventura Modern Quilt Guild.  It was taught by Jen Carlton Bally.    The class was on Lanterns using her Drunkard's Path templates.  Basically it was  how to sew curves without having to pin a lot.  Right up my alley because I HATE to pin.  Her templates are great because they are slightly over sized so you can trim to an accurate size block.  I bought a set; they came in a cute little muslin bag.

Jen's website:    http://www.bettycrockerass.com/shop/   

She used a basting glue stick to align the concave and convex curves together.  I tried it and  it works well.   After doing several her way, I found that I could either just put a dab of glue at the ends and in the middle and not all the way along the curve.   Using an orange stick for my stiletto worked great (learnt  that from John Flynn's class).    

A few things I still use from her class are:  1) begin sewing a seam about a 1/4" in from the end, then back track to the end and come forward again.  What this does is eliminates thread bunching at the beginning and/or the fabric going down the needle hole.

2) Jen uses a smaller stitch length when sewing curves.  Makes sense doesn't it?  Stitches are straight and having a shorter stitch will "bend" around a curve better than a longer stitch.


Website:  https://www.byannie.com/

On the Go Bags

Credit card slots

I have made about a half dozen purses/bags using byAnnie patterns.  I love her "On the Go" bag for quilt shows and fairs.  I made the red, white and blue one as a "test.  Then I made the green one with my friend Selma while we were on a retreat.  I modified all of them, by putting the clear plastic pocket for your name tag to what ever show you're attending, from the outside flap to the inside.  She had one on the inside also, for your ID.  I felt the the purse would be more user friendly, if I didn't have the name tag on the outside.  When I'm at a show (I use it mostly for PIQF), I just flip the flap to the back so that the name tag shows, but when I'm walking around outside the show, the flap covers my name.

Wider back with pockets

The first two I put in the credit card slots as directed.  But after using it awhile, I decided I'd rather carry my wallet.  So on the black one, I made it slightly deeper and eliminated the credit card slots and put in two little pockets for lip stick, pills, whatever.  

On all her bags she uses Soft and Stable foam that's covered in fabric.  This gives the bags some support and firmness.  You quilt fabric to the front and back before cutting out your pieces.  All the seams are bound with binding.    This is the only bag I made where the seams are on the inside.  You bind them on the outside and then turn the bag right side out.  I'm thinking the next one I make it I'll let the seams be on the outside which will give me even more room on the inside.  Get this idea from her other bag patterns.

Hold Everything

Large Hold Everything

Made her "Place for Everything" bag to carry my applique to my small group.  The inside has "pages" that Velcro in and out.   I liked it so much that I decided to make a half size version to carry just my sewing tools in when I'm working on larger projects.  It too has removable "pages".  Decided to make the front of both with selvages.  I have one selvage across the back of the bags that says "Under the Influence of Fabric".  I've made another small version as an gift exchange with my Modern Quilt Guild.  The gal loved if and asked if I would be upset if she used it for jewelry when she traveled instead of for sewing.  

Small Hold Everything

Pages removed

Just finishing up her "Take a Stand" purse/tote.    Thought it would be good to carry when I want to take my tablet with me.    It really holds a lot of stuff.  Had my tablet, wallet, crochet project and a small bottle of water to take to my guild meeting.   There's two sizes with the

Take a Stand

 
pattern and the larger one is big enough to carry your featherweight sewing machine!  I may have to make that to use as a swim bag.  Hmmmm, my wheels are turning.  Outside should be made with something water proof.  Sorry got carried away.

Finally to the point of "new tricks".
In this pattern she shared a new technique that I don't remember from her other patterns.  When making binding, bias or otherwise, don't press it in half.  Pin it wrong sides together every 3 - 4 inches instead.  She said it would make the binding lay smother specially going around curved areas.  And she was right.  I'm going to have to try this next time I make a quilt.  Though I doubt I'll pin the binding in half (cause as previously mentioned - I HATE TO PIN).  I think it would be easy enough to fold as you sew it on.  Sure would be nice not to have to press yards of binding!

What was suppose to be new tricks turned out more of an endorsement for byAnnie.com.  But there were a few tricks in there for you.   Must admit that when I like a product, I love to share it with people.

Knots - Not just for beginnings and endings!

Diagram 2

Diagram 1

I forgot to add one more thing to my Favorite Notions from a previous post.  That's the self threading needle.  (Diagram 1) Mama used to call them Blind man's needles (She was legally blind).  They are a needle with two eyes.  You should be able to see them on the picture to the right. (diagram 2)  The bottom one is a regular eye; the top one has the slightest opening at the top of the needle.  You pull your thread down into the eye.   I don't use these for sewing but for burying thread ends.  Specially for my longarm.  You can take the top and bobbin threads, pull them both through the top of the eye and then bury them in the quilt.  They're good for heavier threads that are hard to get through a small eye, too.  

Diagram 3

The other use for them is when a stitch is loose. (Diagram 3)  You can pull it up, slip the needle into the fabric and push the needle into the loose stitch and pull into down into the fabric. (Diagram 4)  Generally there's not much needle to grab onto, so I use those handy forceps to hold the needle tip and push it up into the thread and then pull it though the fabric.  (Diagram 5)

Diagram 5

Diagram 4

KNOTS:

Every sewer knows you start with a knot and end with a knot; how else can you keep things together.  Over the years I discovered making a knot, even just a slip knot or two helps in many ways.  

If you've ever caught the hem of your pants, dress or skirt on something you know eventually the whole hem is going to sag at some point before you can get home and fix it.  It happened often enough for me that I started making a slip knot or 2 about every 8 to 10 stitches along my hem.   The knots prevent the hem from unraveling too far.

I've adopted this technique over the years to other aspects of sewing.  When I'm putting on binding on a quilt for example; I make a knot every 10 stitches or so.  When I'm doing applique,  I go to the back of my piece and make a knot every so often.  Actually, no matter what I'm sewing by hand, I put knots in as I go along.  If you have a problem with breaking thread or whatever, you know you've knotted not to far back and don't have much to rip out.

In quilting we've been taught never to back tack at the beginning of a seam or at the end because the thickness of the layers of stitching won't allow the seam to press smoothly.  And don't you just hate when you're putting blocks together and your seams within the block start to separate because you didn't tack it at the ends?  The way I help prevent the seams from opening up is very simple.  I usually using a scrap of fabric to start sewing on then I sew a 3 or 4 stitches without anything under the needle before I begin to sew my block and/or unit.  At the end I continue to sew 3 or 4 stitches past the end before I stop.  When it comes to cutting the thread, NEVER clip the thread next to the fabric.  Clip at least 1/4" away.  Those 3 or 4 stitches are twisted together and the extra length you've left will help the seam from pulling apart.

When hand sewing, again I never cut next to the knot.  I put my ending knot in then take my needle and pass it thought the back or seam, at least a needle's length away from the knot and then clip the thread.  The knot is less likely to come undone through washing if it's not clipped too close.  This is good when you're sewing on buttons too.

Multiple Half Square Triangles

When you're making more than one Half Square Triangle (HST) it is faster to make them in multiple units.  I find the methods below let you sew without dealing with the bias of using  2 triangles.  Generally you're using a dark and light fabric.  Instead of cutting them one at a time, I like to place my fabric right sides together and then cut the 2 squares at once.  Then they're all ready to go.  Below are instructions for making 2 at a time and 8 at a time.  I've given you the formula so that you can make what ever size you might need.  The examples are for a finished 2" unit.  

For you beginners, there are two terms, "finished" and "unfinished".  "Finished" is the size of the unit and/or block once it's sewn into a block or quilt.  "Unfinished" is the size of the unit and/or block with the seam allowance added on.   For a 2" finished block, you'd cut 2 1/2".  For HST, you need to add more than just the 1/4" seam allowance on each side.

Most instructions have you add 7/8" rather than the 1" I've given you.  I have yet to get both (or all 8) of my HST to come out exactly.  By adding a full inch, I can trim them to the exact size needed.  That being said, I still sew with a scant 1/4" seam.   

In a previous post about my "favorite things", I mentioned the "Loc-Bloc" ruler from trimming HST.   If you don't have one here is how you trim your HST:  It is MOST IMPORTANT that you place the diagonal line of your square ruler on the diagonal seam.  Adjust it up or down  the seam to make sure you can see that the fabric extends past the parameters of the size you want to cut.  Your seam should be exactly at the corners of your square.

Two Half Square Triangles

Formula: Size of finished Half Square Triangle plus 1"  

Example: 2" finished block + 1" = 3" square

                (3" finished block + 1" = 4" square)

Place the two fabrics right sides together

Cut a 3" square (1 of each color)

Draw a single diagonal line (Fig. 1)

Stitch 1/4" on both sides of lines (Fig.2)

Press stitched piece before cutting apart

Cut between stitching on drawn line (Fig. 3)

Press both Half Square Triangles toward the dark fabric (Fig. 4)

Trim each to a 2 1/2" square

Eight Half Square Triangles

Formula: Size of finished Half Square Triangle plus 1"times 2

Example: 2" finished block + 1" = 3" X 2 = 6" square

                 ( 3" finished block + 1" = 4" X 2 = 8" square)

Place the two fabrics right sides together   

Cut  6" square (1 of each color)

Draw a diagonal line in both directions on the lighter fabric (Fig. 5)

Stitch 1/4" on both sides of both lines (dotted lines are stitching lines) (Fig. 6)

Press stitched piece before cutting apart

Cut piece in half horizontally and vertically, then cut diagonally between stitches on drawn lines (Fig. 7)

Press the 8 Half Square Triangles toward dark fabric

Trim each to a 2 1/2" square.

Viewer's Choice

I won the Viewer's Choice Award at the Camarillo Quilters Association's Quilting by the Sea Quilt Show last April.  They finally got the ribbon to me last week.  It's the only award this guild gives out.  Was very thrilled at winning it.