English Paper Piecing Hexies

My best friend from high school, Margie, asked me about the Hexies I had posted a few years ago.  (see "Two Years Ago" dated 11/15/14)  She wanted to know how they were made.  I told her English Paper Piecing.  

Diagram 1

I've made 3 different sizes of hexies.  (Diagram 1) The smallest flower here is made out of 1/4" hexies, the middle one is 3/8" and the largest one is made out of 1/2" hexies.  I've only made one of the 1/4" ones; as much I LOVE little things, even those were too small for me!  At the time I made these I had no clue what I was going to do with them.   Since then I've made so many, I haven't counted.  Working on an idea for a very long narrow wall hanging.

Diagram 2

Diagram 3

English Paper Piecing is done with card stock weight templates that you wrap your fabric around.  There are many different shapes (not just hexies) you can buy or make yourself.   In Diagram 2 you can see several different sizes.  They're measured by the length of one side.  I can't find my bag of the 1/4" hexies.  The one on the bottom of the ruler is 3/8"  the others, are from left to right, 1", 3/4" and 1/2".  In Diagram 3  you can see a Hexie punch that makes 1/2" hexies.  It's the smallest punch I could find.   I used index cards to punch them out.  My friend, Selma, saves the postcards you get inside magazines and uses those to punch hers out.   I've purchased the 3/8" ones a Cotton and Chocolate Quilt shop; most stores carry them.  The good thing, is once you've attached enough together, you can pull them out and reuse them.

Diagram 4

There a couple of ways to keep the fabric wrapped around the templates.  Diagram 4 shows that I've "basted" the fabric around one of the pink templates using black thread so you can see it.  Fold one edge over and then the next counter clockwise.  I take one stitch and then move my needle over to the next folded down fabric and take a stitch and keep going around the hexie.  This turned out to be very time consuming.

Diagram 5

Diagram 6 

After watching a demonstration at the C & C booth at PIQF, I saw how to do it with basting glue.  I use Sewline glue stick.  (Diagram 5) The reason I like it is that the glue comes out blue so you can see where it is.  It dries clear and washes out.  When using the glue you need to be careful not to get it on the template but only on the fabric.  Again I start with folding one edge over and put a dab of glue before folding down the next edge, working around the hexie.  I work around the hexie in a counter clockwise direction.  (Diagram 6)  shows, the six green hexies in stages of being glued down, starting at the top and working clockwise.  REMEMBER, don't get the glue on the template or you won't be able to remove it!

Diagram 7

Diagram 8

Next you're going to want to attach one hexie to the next.  Not sure if you can see in Diagram 7 (another picture at the end may be clearer) that I've joined the brown hexie to the pink one using a whip stitch.  I used white thread in hopes that it would be more visible.  You want to catch just the fabric on the edge of the template but not pierce the template itself.  With hexies, once one side is sewn, I like to make a slip knot before going on to the next edge.  In Diagram 8, I've bent the pink hexie in half so that I can line up the next side 

Diagram 9

of the brown hexie to the next pink one.  Diagram 9 shows the two lower edges of the right brown hexie has been attached to two of the pink hexies.  

Hope my explanation has made sense.  Like I said at the beginning, I'm working on a very long wall hanging.  I'll show you later, when it's finished.  But because it is so very long, I've been piecing it in parts.  (Diagram 10)

Diagram 10

The hexie in the middle white row second from the right, has it's paper template removed.  It will lay flat again once the entire piece is quilted.

Whip stitching 2 hexies together
(Diagram 7a)

Piecing Tips

Let's get down to basics -  putting two piece of fabric together.  Easy, right?   Have you heard of the Warp and Weft of fabric?  

The Warp are the threads of the fabric that are attached to the loom when making fabric.  For us laymen it's the selvage edges.

The Weft are the threads that are woven under and over the Warp threads.

Most of us cut off the selvages when we begin cutting up our fabric into pieces for quilting.  There's no give in the selvage and can cause problems down the road.  If you're sewing clothes, the patterns give you indications as to where to layout your pattern on your fabric.  The Big Black Arrows that say "put me along the selvage edge" please.  

But once you remove those selvages, how do you know?  Simple, give your fabric a little tug between your fingers.   The Warp or selvage edge won't "give" very much when pulled, if at all.  However, the Warp edge will pull easily the same way you'd expect a bias edge to "give" when pulled.

What does this mean for us quilters?  How many times have you tried sewing a row of blocks or even pieces of blocks together and they just don't quite match up?  

Let's say we're making a simple 4 patch block.  Here's an easy step to take to help with that.  Figure out which is the Warp and which is the Weft by pulling each edge of the square of fabric you've cut.  Which ever "gives" the most is the Weft.  Sorry I can't show you both my hands pulling on the fabric - needed one hand to snap the photo! 

Now when you sew two pieces together, place the Weft sides at the top/bottom and sew along the Warp edges.  What has this done for you?  Sew your two sets of 2 patches using this method.  Now that you have 2 sets of 2 patches ready to sew together into a 4 patch,  you'll be sewing along the Weft edges.  These are the edges that "give" when stretched.  So if your cutting or sewing hasn't been exactly accurate, this little "give" will allow you to stretch the fabric a little bit to make the edges and/or seams of your pieces match up perfectly!

This technique is especially helpful when you're sewing plain squares in a row of pieced blocks.  Gives you that extra little bit to get things to match up just right.

Another Tip along those same "matching up" issues:  If you're sewing along and your noticing that the next seam, or end of the blocks you're sewing together aren't going to match up, what do you do?   Well, which ever is shorter, whether it's the top piece of the bottom, hold it a bit tighter while your machine feels the fabric under the foot.  Just a bit tighter.  The feed dogs and/or walking foot will pull along which ever you're not holding onto  tightly and will help "ease" it into the short piece.  And Wala!  the seams and/or end of the fabric match up!!

I can't stress enough that I HATE to pin ... anything.  But I've learned there is one except and that's when I add borders.  I'll go into the correct way of "adding borders" at another time.  For now just remember it's better to pin borders than not to pin.  Why?  As mentioned above, fabric "gives".  When sewing on borders without pinning them you will enviably stretch the border and this will cause wavy borders that will never lay flat.

Chain Piecing a Quilt

My favorite way to put a quilt together is chain piecing the whole quilt.  We all chain piece, "pieces parts" of blocks, but most people don't think to chain piece the blocks together.

There are several advantages to doing this:  

• It's fast
• You can see mistakes before the rows go together
• Makes pressing the rows in the right direction easier

Lay out your blocks either on your design wall or on your floor.  (Diagram 1)  I like to put a safety pin in the top left corner of the block in Row 1, Column 1 to indicate the top left of the quilt.

Diagram 1

Diagram 2

Now take the blocks in Column two and flip them over on top of the blocks in Column 1 (Diagram 2).  I like to stack them up starting with the bottom row and off setting the pairs slightly to take them to my sewing machine.  Stitch them together one set after another; in other words "chain" piece them until the row is complete. 

Go back to your design wall (or floor) and stack up Column 3 blocks starting at the bottom with the first block ending up on top of the stack.

Bring the stack over to the sewing machine.  "Open" up the first pair that was sewn together and lay your first block from the stack (Column3) face down and sew it.  Continue opening up the first pair of sewn blocks and adding the next block from stack (Column 3) to them.

Repeat stacking up your columns and sewing them onto the blocks already assembled.

When you are finished, lay out your blocks and check to see if they all were added in the right order.  It's also easier to see if you'd like to change up a block or two.  Having the rows together sometime gives you a better perspective of how things will look.  Diagram 3 shows a quilt that is chained together.  The rows are not joined yet.  

Now it's time to take it to the ironing board and press the seams.  Press the first row one direction and the next the opposite direction.  It's easy to remember which way to press each row, because they are all there in front of you!

Diagram 3

Diagram 4

Hope you all will try out this technique the next time you're assembling a quilt.  Let me know what you think.

Added note:  When joining the rows together,  I like to start at the bottom of the quilt.  Fold the last row on top of the second to last row.  This keeps the majority of the quilt on the bottom and to the left of your machine.  Once the you've sewn these bottom to rows together, it's easy to go back to the top and fold them over on top of the rest of the rows to sew the next rows together.

2018 - What's Up?

Can't believe I've not posted in 3 years!  So much has happened.

Best thing is we have a Grandson now.  Connor is 15 months old and as cute as he can be.  Molly is now 6 and what a smart little girl she's turning out to be.  She's in kindergarten now.  Reading everything she can get her hands on and loving doing math problems with Grampa.  They have the times table written on her white board here at the house.  She won't ease it to draw pictures cause she hasn't memorized it all yet.

I've joined the Ventura Modern Quilt Guild besides being a member of the Camarillo Quilt Association.  Really enjoying the modern guild because it's small and easier to get to know people.

From our driveway

Night after the fire started

I'm sure most of you have heard about the Thomas Fire that happened here in Ventura last December.  The first night of the fire came within a few blocks of our home.  We stood in the street watching flames come over the hills behind the orchard until 3 am.  Our subdivision was spared.  The winds blew it westward through the city of Ventura and up the coast to Montecito and Santa Barbara county.  We were in a cloud of smoke for many days.

Our Modern guild has spearheaded making quilts for all the victims.  Not only here in Ventura but those of the Montecito mud slides.  I've been doing as many as I can.  So grateful our home was spared; feel a need to give to those who weren't as fortunate.

I've lost my website.  And apparently there is now a new company called The Quilting Co.  I had received an email asking to sell my domain over a year ago.  I get those every now and then.  I didn't realize they were actually going to start a business with that name.  It makes me said every time I see it.  I didn't sell the domains.  And if I let them expire, they'll just take them.  Having a hard time letting it go.  

Was hoping to have my pattern line up and selling under that name.  But family life has made it too hectic to get the patterns designed.  Some day maybe.

For now, I'm hoping to post tips and suggests to this blog.  Don't give up on me.  Below are a few of the quilts and quilt tops I've done for the Thomas Fire Project.  The one with people in it is a quilt top I made while still living in Walnut Creek.  Got it quilted with feathers and donated it.  The gal on the right is the recipient.   

made from donated TF blocks

Diablo Valley Quilters Retreat 2015

As a lot of you know, Selma Haley and I started the DVQ retreat back in 1997.  Each year since then new chairmen have made it bigger and better.  This year was no exception.   I look forward to it each year.  Specially now that I live so far away.

Just wanted to post a few pictures of what I worked on and others too.

My Winding Ways or Wheel of Mystery was begun in a John Flynn class I took at the Camarillo Quilters Association workshop.  I finished piecing it at the retreat.  During the workshop I had purchased a dye cut kit of Storm at Sea.  The finished quilt will measure 14 1/2" X 18".  Below you can see how tiny the pieces are.

Winding Ways

Pieces made at reatreat. Square are 1 5/8" finished

My projects at retreat.   

At home making "large" Sq in Sq.

Selma & I - 44 years of friendship

Selma's quilt

Quilt by Ellen Bill

Retreat Blocks

Ironing Table - How to make and cover

I received an old changing table from my daughter's sister-in-law.  Bruce took the top off and added wheels to the legs.   The wheels and the new top make it just the right height for me.

After research we found not all wood is created equal. :)  (It's the 4th of July tomorrow). Anyway - most of the "big board" time of ironing boards are made out of MDF.  It's a great composite material that doesn't warp.  Trouble is it is made with a type of glue that has formaldehyde in it.  When heat is applied the formaldehyde is released in the air.   Basically all press boards and composites use this type of glue.  After a period of time the formaldehyde will be gone.  But I have a granddaughter, and don't want anything in the air that may harm her.

Plywood uses glue by none containing formaldehyde.  The trouble with plywood is that it does warp.  And finding a perfectly flat piece at the local big supply store is nearly impossible.  We did find a large flat piece that was made out of strips of pine glued side by side.  It was back where they have small sheets of wood; rounds for table tops, etc.  Again it was made with wood glue without formaldehyde.  

Bruce cut it to the size I needed.  55 X 19.  This gives me room for a width of fabric plus a place for my iron to rest.

At Joann's Fabric I bought 2 yards of Insul-Bright.  It is a type of batting used to make pot holders or casserole carriers. Insulated again heat.   From Bo-Nash I ordered their IronSlide ironing board cover.  29 X 65.   Because I was using 2 layers of the Insul-Bright, I didn't get the cover that came with the foam pad.  I bought my first Bo-Nash cover over 10 years ago for my regular ironing board.  Trust me, 10 years is a long time for a cover to last specially as hard as I use them. I'm quite impressed with their product.


I cut 2 pieces the Insul-Bright to the the size of the top plus 1 inch.  This gave me just 1/2" overlap for the edges.  I did not want it the wrap around to the bottom, otherwise the cover with not stick to the underside of the top.  Cut away a square at the corner and the edges fold down without any bulk.  Use flat head thumb tacks to secure the corners.  I also used them every 5 inches or so to secure the Insul-Bright to the table.

Next, measure the how much over hang and and area you have under the table and add that to your top measurement.  I had lots of under surface at both ends of the table, but only about an inch on the short sides.  This was another reason I didn't want to wrap my Insul-bright around to the bottom of the table; I knew there wouldn't be enough surface to adhere the Bo-Nash.

You apply the Bo-Nash the same way you would apply a laminate surface.  Peeling back the protective plastic as you smooth down the cover.  I started at one short end; I peeled the plastic back and under itself with the sticky side up.  I pulled it down over the end and secured it to the under side of the table.  Once it was secure, I flipped the cover to the left and began peeling the plastic away as I smoothed the cover down.  To help smooth the cover down and smooth the creases out, I used my 24" ruler.
 
 

Two Years Later

Can't believe it's been over 2 years since we moved south.  As I'm typing this I'm sitting in the dining room of my house in Walnut Creek.   Tenants have moved out and we're going to sell the house.  Had several clients tell me they loved my house and would buy it if it ever came on the market.  Of course, I can't remember who you are now.  At the time I never dreamed of leaving my beautiful home.

It's been such a joy watching our little granddaughter, Molly, grow up.  She'll be 3 in just a few weeks.  So bright, beautiful and tall.  Obviously she gets the height from her father, not us short little Baileys. :)

Since we've been south I've been working on a pattern line rather than doing longarm quilting. Though my daughter has kept me busy quilting her quilts.  I'm working on the 3rd pattern design and hope to have them all ready for publishing by spring.  We're hoping to self publish and distribute. 

At PIQF last month I fell in love with 3/8" hexies.  Have absolutely no idea what I'm going to make with them, but the are so darn cute I can't stop making them.